Delhi Diaries: Part 3 – From Jama Masjid to Chandni Chowk

A guided walk through Purani Dilli

Jan 22, 2025

Delhi Diaries: A Series of Stories

This is part-3 of my four part series on touring Delhi. Like I mentioned in my earlier blog, one of my last trips in 2024 was to Delhi, and let me tell you, I wasn’t even remotely ready for what the city had in store!

This city had me hooked—its history, its buzzing streets, and the kind of food that makes you wonder how you’ve been surviving on anything else your whole life. I came back brimming with stories, thinking, ‘This will be one epic blog!’ But I soon realised that my stories were SO many that I hit the ‘you’ve reached your character limit’ warning faster than I hit my step goal exploring Delhi. So, welcome to part three of my four-part series, where today we dive headfirst into the vibrant, and chaotic lanes of Old Delhi!

Jama Masjid

When someone says ‘Delhi-6,’ they’re talking about purani Dilli—Old Delhi. It’s the heart of the city, with all its chaos, charm, and history. While the food here deserves its own spotlight (don’t worry, I’ll get to that later), I started my day with the stunning Jama Masjid.

The Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa, which translates to ‘a mosque that reflects the world,’ is more than just a name. It’s a feeling. It’s called the Jama Masjid because it’s where people come together (jama = congregation). Built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century, this red sandstone and white marble marvel is so grand, so symmetrical, it almost feels unreal. The calligraphy and intricate motifs in the prayer hall are pure art.

Oh, and the minarets! There are two, and if you’re feeling adventurous, you can climb one for a ticketed fee. The panoramic view of Delhi from the top? Totally worth the climb—just a heads-up, the staircase is narrow, so go early when it’s less crowded and take it slow.

I wandered through the gateways leading to the mosque, and honestly, each one revealed a breathtaking new view. It’s one of those rare places that stuns you from every angle—so much so that I kept pausing just to soak it all in. I think I spent a solid 3-4 hours simply loitering around, marveling at the architecture, the intricate calligraphy, the lively chaos in the main square, and, of course, clicking a million photos from every possible angle and viewpoint.

Observe the calligraphy on the walls of the Jama Masjid. White marble and the contrasting red sandstone makes the most gorgeous structure

One of the stunning views from Jama Masjid is that of the Red Fort. In fact, if you climb the minaret, you get a sweeping view of the entire wall of the Red Fort, and it looks magnificent. So, naturally, I hopped into an auto-rickshaw and made my way to this iconic landmark.

Red Fort

When Shah Jahan decided to shift his capital from Agra to Delhi, he didn’t just build a city—he created Shahjahanabad, the Mughal Empire’s new crown jewel. At its heart lies the Red Fort, a masterpiece that served as the residence for several Mughal emperors.

The fort is now maintained by the ASI, so you’ll need a ticket to get in (highly recommend booking online in advance or scanning a QR code for a quicker entry). You can enter through two main gates: the Lahori Gate, a ceremonial gateway named for facing Lahore, and the Delhi Gate, along with a couple of smaller ones.

The fort gets its name from its striking red sandstone walls. Once you step inside, you’re greeted by the Naubat Khana, where musicians would once play to welcome guests.

Fun fact: This space also served as an early version of a mall, with artisans showcasing and selling their wares to visitors heading into the fort! The stores were positioned on the upper levels so that visitors could stay atop their elephants and shop merrily. What a time to be alive!

As you wander further in, you’ll find the Diwan-i-Aam (Hall of Public Audience). This is where the emperor addressed the public, seated on a stunning stone-studded marble throne that still commands attention. And then there’s the showstopper—the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). True to its name (‘khas’ means special), this was the emperor’s inner sanctum for meeting ministers and dignitaries.

The hall is adorned with breathtaking stone inlay work, and it’s hard not to imagine how much more opulent it must have looked in its heyday, with walls and ceilings decked in gold and silver. Sadly, that splendor was looted by multiple invaders. Apparently, the ASI tried to restore one side of a pillar with gold plating, but it turned out to be crazy expensive, so they just gave up. That pillar is now hidden away from public view, and unfortunately, I couldn’t catch a glimpse of it. 😔

Oh, and don’t miss the famous Urdu inscription on the walls:

"Agar Firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast: hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast"

(If there is a paradise on earth, it is this, it is this, it is this.)

There is a large belief that this popular couplet was meant for Kashmir - the paradise on Earth. But then how come you have this inscription on the walls of the Diwan-i-khas!

Next up are the Mumtaz Mahal and the Rang Mahal, both part of the zenanas (women's quarters). The Rang Mahal, once home to the emperor’s wives and mistresses, lives up to its name. Even now, the faded interiors still hint at the vibrant colors that once adorned its walls, giving you a glimpse of its former grandeur. Adding to the charm is the Nahr-i-Bihisht (Stream of Paradise), a serene water channel that flows through the structures. The Mumtaz Mahal, on the other hand, served as the royal harem, where female members of the royal family stayed.

Aurangzeb also built a small mosque for himself here. There’s an interesting story behind it—apparently, he once visited Jama Masjid and crossed paths with a saint. Without realizing who it was, he insulted the saint for blocking his path. Later, when he found out the truth, he was so embarrassed that he vowed never to enter Jama Masjid again and had this private mosque built instead. Visitors aren’t allowed inside, but the jali-work on the walls is worth a peek—absolutely stunning.

A view of the mosque through the jali work on the outer walls

You’ll also find a baoli (stepwell) within the fort complex, currently under restoration. It has a rare T-shaped design, which is pretty unique. Then there are the Mughal-era hamams (bathhouses) and, of course, the lovely Mughal gardens. There are plenty of benches scattered around, so take a breather here.

There are a few museums in the Red Fort complex, but they focus more on the Indian independence movement and British colonial times than the Mughal era. Honestly, they didn’t really grab my attention, so if you’re short on time, you could skip them.

From here, I made my way to the Chandni Chowk area.

Chandni Chowk

I can’t even count how many times I tried the Chandni Chowk tongue twister as a kid, even though I grew up miles away from Delhi!

How many times can you nail it? Here’s the challenge:

Chandu ke Chacha ne Chandu ki Chachi ko, Chandni Chowk mein, Chandni Raat mein, Chaandi ke Chammach se Chatni Chatai.

Chandni Chowk is right in front of the Red Fort, so after exploring the fort, head over to this bustling market for all your shopping and food cravings. Fair warning—this place can make you lose your mind with how much it offers, so brace yourself. The best part? It’s a vehicle-free zone, so you can either stroll around or hop on a cycle-rickshaw to get around.

A little story about Chandni Chowk: Shah Jahan designed his corridor so that from his throne, he could gaze straight through the Mughal gardens and see the hustle and bustle of the market. The view was blocked only by later kings, but there’s a story that when Shah Jahan was watching the market one day, he noticed the Jains were praying in a small camp tent because they didn’t have a temple space. He was so moved that he gave them land to build a proper temple. This temple came to be known as the Urdu Jain Temple—Urdu meaning ‘camp,’ since it started in a camp-like setting. On that lane, you'll also find an incredible mix of a Jain temple, a mosque, a gurdwara, a Hindu temple, and a church—talk about a marvel of secularism!

a group of glass vases sit under an umbrella — The view of the Red Fort from the Chandni Chowk lane: Photo by Brijender Dua on Unsplash

And of course, there are tons of food joints and shops, making it the perfect place to spend a few hours in Delhi. I grabbed some delicious dahi bhallas from Natraj Dahi Bhalla and picked up a bunch of junk jewellery and dupattas while wandering through the charming alleys of Chandni Chowk.

Connaught Place

From Chandni Chowk, we hopped into an auto and made our way to the iconic Connaught Place, or CP. If you’re ever in Delhi, CP is THE spot. It’s got high street brands but also the perfect mix of local markets like Janpath and Palika Bazar. It’s one of those places where you can just walk around, soak in the vibe, and maybe even pop into a bar for a quick beer to take a breather from all the chaos. And of course, that’s exactly what I did—I definitely needed a break after the long Red Fort tour and the Chandni Chowk shopping spree, not to mention the evening session I had planned for Janpath.

Let’s just say Janpath didn’t disappoint! I came away with bags full of stylish outfits and statement earrings, totally worth it! 😄

white concrete building near road during daytime — Photo by Rehan Fazal on Unsplash

What’s your favorite part of Old Delhi? Drop a comment and let us know!