Delhi Diaries: Part 1 – Mehrauli: The 'Real' Old Delhi
A guided walk through Qutub Complex and other gems of Mehrauli
Delhi Diaries: A Series of Stories
One of my last trips in 2024 was to Delhi, and let me tell you, I wasn’t even remotely ready for what the city had in store! The history, the streets, the food—every single thing blew my mind! Every experience far exceeded my expectations. It was so incredible that I couldn’t stop myself from putting pen to paper and creating a blog series for anyone wanting to explore this treasure trove of a city. (Psst., I have been singing praises of Delhi so much that several of my friends are now so intrigued about this city, that they’ve been following up with me for this blog. So putting in all my effort to remember all the stories that came my way that entire magical week)
This is the first of a four-part series, and we’re diving right into history with a tour of Mehrauli:
Mehrauli: The 'Real' Old Delhi
There’s New Delhi, Old Delhi, and then there’s Mehrauli—Delhi’s real old soul. Let’s kick things off here with:
1. Tomb of Ghiyas ud din Balban (13th Century)
A ruler of the Slave Dynasty with a story that reads like a historical epic. Ghiyas ud din Balban started his journey as one of Iltutmish’s 40 slaves (remember Iltutmish from history class?) and worked his way up to become one of the most famous rulers of Delhi.
What’s even more fascinating? His tomb. It’s one of the earliest surviving examples of Islamic arches and domes in India, laying the groundwork for Indo-Islamic architecture as we know it. Today, it stands in a state of beautiful ruin, offering a hauntingly majestic glimpse into the past.
Tip: You’ll need prior permission from the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) to enter the site, so plan accordingly!
2. Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb (16th Century)
Hands down one of the most spectacular and intriguing tomb complexes that I saw in Delhi! Built during the fascinating transition from the Lodhi dynasty to Mughal rule, this monument reflects the best of both worlds in its architectural style.
The Jamali Kamali complex comprises a mosque (open to visitors) and the tomb of Sufi saint Shaikh Fazlullah—better known by his poetic pen name, Jamali. But wait, who’s Kamali?
‘Kamali’ translates to the one alongside Jamali, but their exact identity is shrouded in mystery. Some historians say Kamali was a disciple, others claim a companion, fellow poet, or even a loved one. In fact, the legends have resonated so strongly with Delhi’s queer community that today, several pride processions and gatherings begin right here at Jamali Kamali.
The mosque is an architectural masterpiece, blending red sandstone and marble with intricate stucco work. Its interior boasts Quranic verses, geometric designs, and a stunning prayer niche—the most largest among the five arches, marking the direction of Mecca
On the other side of the complex lies the tomb, and it’s absolutely breathtaking. Inside, the walls are adorned with mesmerizing blue and yellow tiles, forming delicate floral patterns and Persian calligraphy. It’s said that Jamali spent a part of his life here, adding to the mystical vibe of the space.
Now here’s where it gets even more intriguing—there are two tombs inside. One clearly belongs to Jamali, featuring inscriptions about him and Allah. The second, presumed to be Kamali’s, has no inscriptions at all, leaving the mystery unsolved.
A sneak-peek of the tomb structure from the inside. The video does no justice to the real beauty of the place. Video © Misadventures of a Sneaker.
Tip: You’ll need ASI permission to access the tomb, so consider hiring a licensed guide who can handle this for you. It’s totally worth the effort!
3. Rajon ki Baoli (16th Century)
This stepwell isn’t just functional; it’s stunning. Designed for water storage and as a rest stop for weary travelers, the baoli reflects brilliant 16th-century engineering. Its name comes from the masons (‘Rajon’) believed to have built and used it.
What’s fascinating is the clever design: an upper well ensured clean drinking water, while the lower levels were reserved for bathing and cleaning, maintaining hygiene and safety. It’s a beautiful reminder of how practical needs met architectural elegance in 16th-century engineering
4. Quli Khan’s Tomb (17th Century)
This tomb, built for Quli Khan, a noble in Akbar’s court, offers much more than historical significance—it’s a feast for the eyes. The structure is perched on a hill, and its panoramic views are breathtaking, especially the stunning sight of the Qutub Minar from here.
During British rule, Thomas Metcalfe, the British Resident to the Mughal Court, transformed the tomb into a guest house, dubbing it the Dilkusha Retreat (meaning ‘heart-warming’). He made significant renovations, giving it a blend of Mughal and colonial aesthetics.
5. Metcalfe’s Folly (19th Century)
Speaking of Metcalfe, he wasn’t done with just one retreat! He built a series of pavilions, gardens, and leisure retreats around the area, now collectively known as Metcalfe’s Folly. These structures were designed for relaxation and entertainment, including a dining area, now repurposed as the park’s canteen, and an office area.
A highlight of his leisure complex is a water tank, located just a few steps from Dilkusha. Metcalfe refurbished it into a boathouse, which doubled as a swimming and boating area. Legend has it that the boathouse was occasionally rented out to English honeymooners!
The area is dotted with smaller tombs and Sufi shrines, each telling its own quiet story. Stroll around, admire the intricate architecture, and let the serenity of this historical treasure wash over you.
Note: Recommended duration - at least 4 hours to walk around the complex with a professional guide narrating the stories.
Must-Visit: The Qutub Complex
Since you’re already in Mehrauli, it would be a crime to skip the Qutub Complex—a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Delhi’s most celebrated landmarks. And here’s my little disclaimer: I’m calling it a complex, not just the Qutub Minar, because the minar is not even the main highlight (yep, I said it!).
To fully appreciate the beauty and history here, I highly recommend hiring a professional guide.
A gorgeous short video I managed to get while admiring the minar. Video © Misadventures of a Sneaker.
The History Behind the Qutub Complex
The story of the Qutub Complex begins in the 12th century with Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the founder of the Delhi Sultanate and the first ruler of the Slave (Mamluk) Dynasty. He laid its foundation to celebrate his victory over Delhi’s last Hindu kingdom and to mark the dawn of Islamic rule in India. Over the centuries, rulers like Iltutmish and Firoz Shah Tughlaq added their touches to this architectural masterpiece, creating a fascinating blend of Islamic and Hindu styles.
What to See in the Qutub Complex
Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque: Right next to the minar, this mosque is a stunning (and slightly controversial) structure built using materials from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. Look closely at the intricately carved pillars—Hindu motifs and inscriptions peek through.
Alai Minar and Alai Darwaza:
The Alai Minar, commissioned by Alauddin Khalji, was intended to be twice the height of the Qutub Minar. However, the ambitious project was abandoned after Khalji’s death, leaving behind a massive, incomplete pillar.
The Alai Darwaza, on the other hand, is a showstopper. Built in the early 14th century, it’s a masterpiece of Indo-Islamic architecture, with intricate latticework (jali), geometric designs, and beautiful Quranic calligraphy. Its dome is one of the earliest surviving true domes in Indian Islamic architecture.
Iltutmish’s Tomb: My personal favorite! Built in the early 13th century by Iltutmish himself, this tomb is a marvel of early Islamic art. The walls, inside and out, are adorned with Quranic inscriptions, elaborate motifs, and delicate stone carvings, all in rich red sandstone. It’s beautifully preserved and a must-see highlight of the complex.
The Qutub Minar: Finally, the iconic victory tower! I’d recommend visiting both during the day and after sunset when it’s illuminated in golden light. Trust me, the vibe under those glowing lights is pure magic.
Mehrauli has plenty more monuments to explore, but these are, in my opinion, the absolute highlights. I easily spent 4-5 hours just in the Qutub complex admiring the architecture and enjoying listening to stories of my guide.
Here's a map showing all the places we covered in this blog, all of which are walkable:
We got lucky with great guides for both our walking tours (Mehrauli Archaeological park and Qutub Complex). Drop us a comment or DM us here if you wish to get the details - will be happy to pass on the details.
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Further blogs in the Delhi series:
Part-2 - Sunder Nursery, Humayun’s tomb and Nizamuddin area’s tombs and mosques (here)
Part-3 - Red Fort, Jama Masjid and Chandni Chowk Area (here)
Part-4 - Lodhi Gardens, Hauz Khas, Kartavya path, Food tour and Shopping in Delhi (here)
Drop us a comment if you wish to get further details on anything specific. Also let us know if you’re enjoying this virtual tour of Delhi.