From Guwahati to Arunachal Pradesh: A Women's Expedition Across Northeast India
Stories from an All-Women's Road Trip in Northeast India
I was born in Assam, and with both of my parents hailing from this beautiful state, my childhood summers were spent visiting relatives across various cities in Assam. The journey from Kolkata took two days by train, and I vividly remember the joy I felt when the scenery shifted from green fields to rolling hills and tea gardens—I knew we had arrived in Assam.
Years have passed, and now as an adult, I find myself falling in love with Assam all over again every time I visit or even hear someone mention it. So, imagine my excitement when I heard we had a guest who embarked on an all-women’s road trip from Assam to Arunachal Pradesh!
Meet Swati Das, a fearless explorer and trained scuba diver known for her dives in various locations from Indonesia and the Andamans to diving between the tectonic plates in Iceland. Swati joined over 40 women on an all-women driving expedition across the breathtaking landscapes of Northeast India! This exhilarating journey was organized by the National Commission for Women and the Amazing NamastE Foundation.
This team comprised women from various parts of the country, spanning age groups from their 20s to their 70s. Under the tag 'Dekho Apna Desh' (See Your Country), they set out to explore and uncover the hidden treasures of Northeast India.
During the conversation between Swati and Revati, I learned that the Ahom kings defeated the Mughal rulers 17 times! Despite ruling for nearly 600 years, their remarkable history remains largely unknown to many. For more amazing stories that you won't find in history books, listen to the full podcast here:
Each car had three drivers and one non-driver, responsible for vehicle cleanliness. A backup car carried the photographer/videographer, the sole male team member, documenting the journey with interviews. Media representatives occasionally joined, ensuring widespread coverage.
Day 0: Evening Orientation in Guwahati
The team gathered for an evening orientation in Guwahati. Some of the ladies took the opportunity to visit the famous Ma Kamakhya temple.
Day 1: Guwahati – Nagaon – Tezpur
7:00 AM: Reporting time at Cotton University for the flag-off ceremony. Despite its name, the university is not related to textiles but is historically significant, named after a British officer, Sir John Cotton.
The group had no spare keys. During a lunch stop in Nagaon, one team accidentally locked their keys inside the car. The drama that unfolded after that was hilarious - a little video snippet of that:
The journey continued to Tezpur, also known as the "City of Blood," named after the historic battle between Vaishnavas and Shaivites. A highlight of Tezpur is Agnigarh, a hillock rich in Hindu mythology. According to legend, it was a fortress built by Banasura to isolate his daughter Usha, who fell in love with Anirudh, the grandson of Krishna, through her dreams. Despite Krishna's approval of the marriage, King Bana, a devout follower of Shiva, opposed it and used Shiva’s followers to guard the fortress. The ensuing conflict between Vaishnavas and Shaivites was so intense that Brahma had to intervene to restore peace. Today, Agnigarh is a beautiful park with fountains, flowers, and sculptures, offering stunning views of the Brahmaputra River and a perfect sunset spot.
Next, they visited the ancient Mahabairabh Temple, built in the 8th century by King Bana, featuring a living stone Shiva lingam that grows over time.
The day ended at a charming English-style guesthouse in Tezpur, where the group had dinner with ITBP head Anand Sir.
Day 2: Tezpur – Dhalpur – Dhemaji
Narayanpur: The group visited a monastery of the Khamti community, originally from Burma (Myanmar). The community had migrated from lower to upper Assam. The beautiful monastery resembled a Chinese pagoda. They visited a charming temple/monastery here which housed an ages old Ramayana manuscript in the Khamti script.
Dhalpur: The team then headed for lunch to a resort dedicated to bamboo and sustainable living. Here, they enjoyed delicious traditional Assamese food served in bamboo halves and on banana leaves, with drinks in bamboo glasses (many of which were taken as souvenirs). This is also where many women bought customized mekhela sador, a traditional Assamese half saree with stunning pallu work.
They also experienced the Mising festival, a tribal festival famous for its rice beer.
Day 3: Dhemaji – Machkhowa – Roing (AP)
Machkhowa: The team visited Machkhowa, where women have established traditional muga silk weaving units at the back of their homes, empowering themselves and providing employment to others. The village has a matriarchal society where husbands can join their father-in-law's businesses.
Roing: The journey continued on long, winding roads through hilly terrain, crossing the Brahmaputra River. Along the way, they passed through Silluk, a zero-waste village in Arunachal Pradesh. By the time they reached Roing, it was cold and rainy. They gathered around a campfire in the kitchen of DTO Roing, enjoying jaggery tea and traditional sweets. The evening was filled with fun, dance, and song.
Day 4: Roing – Tezu – Parshuram Kund – Namsai
Tezu: The group visited the Tezu District Museum.
Parshuram Kund: Located within the Kamlang Reserve Forest area on the Lohit River, Parshuram Kund is linked to the legend of the Hindu sage Parshuram. According to mythology, Parshuram washed away his sin of matricide in the river’s waters at Brahmakund, where the axe stuck to his hand fell, cleaving the mountain and creating the Brahmakund. Thousands of pilgrims gather here annually on Makar Sankranti to cleanse their sins, with a fair held during this period. En route to Tezu, the site offers panoramic views of the Lohit Valley and breathtaking sunrise and sunset vistas.
Namsai: The Golden Pagoda, or Kongmu Kham in the Tai-Khamti language, is a Burmese-style Buddhist temple, featuring a large Buddha statue. The area also features traditional Tibetan and dragon murals, along with Tibetan prayer flags and Hanuman pamphlets, reflecting a blend of Buddhist and Hindu influences
Day 5: Namsai – Jairampur – Dibrugarh
Jairampur – Lekhapani: The historic Stilwell Road, originally known as the Ledo Road, played a crucial role during World War II, connecting India, Myanmar, and China as part of the Allied effort against Japan. This road facilitated a major civilian exodus in 1942 after Burma's fall, starting from Ledo in East Assam and extending all the way to Kunming, China.
Constructed by many American soldiers and local workers, this monumental effort came at a high human cost, with over 1,100 American and local lives lost during construction. This earned the road the somber nickname ‘A Man A Mile.’
The area also hosts a World War II cemetery, discovered by the Assam Rifles in the 1990s, containing over a thousand graves of Allied soldiers who perished building this road. Now, the road is mostly covered by forests on both sides, making it a beautiful route to drive through.
Dibrugarh: A bustling city with a live train track running parallel to the main highway, creating a unique urban landscape.
Day 6: Dibrugarh - Sivasagar - Kaziranga
Sivasagar: Known for its illustrious history under the Ahom dynasty, Sivasagar served as the capital for over six centuries until it fell to the Burmese. Highlights include:
Rang Ghar: Asia's oldest amphitheater, served as the royal sports and cultural events during the Ahom rule, particularly during festivals like Rongali Bihu.
Siva Dol: Located on the banks of the Sivasagar tank, Siva Dol is a complex of temples that includes Sivadol, Assam's tallest temple, along with Vishnudol and Devidol, accompanied by a museum. The term ‘Dol’ means temple in Assamese. Built by Queen Ambika, wife of Swargadeo Siva Singha of the Ahom dynasty, this 18th-century structure continues to be a focal point of worship and belief in Assam.
The sanctum sanctorum houses the main Shiva lingam set in a unique inverted position, giving the illusion of a perfectly symmetrical, endless cylinder to the naked eye. Despite being partly in ruins, the temple is meticulously preserved in parts and remains a hub of community activity. Guides and local storytellers fill in the gaps with tales that have been passed down through generations.
The Kareng Ghar and the Talatal ghar, both gorgeous structures are also nearby and is a must visit.
The journey continued with a long drive through a work-in-progress road, encountering detours, and finally reaching Kaziranga late at night.
Day 7: Kaziranga - Nagaon - Guwahati
Kaziranga Safari: The group had a memorable safari experience at Kaziranga National Park, led by Ms. Sonali Ghosh, the first and only female Director in the park's 118-year history. She shared inspiring stories of her efforts to protect the rhinos from poachers, and her unexpected journey into the Indian Forest Service (IFS).
Guwahati: The journey concluded with a final flag-in ceremony in Guwahati. The closing ceremony featured a vibrant Bihu dance performance, followed by the distribution of certificates and gifts. Some participants shared their experiences from the trip.
Swati’s journey was adorned with gestures of respect and warmth, receiving several Assamese gamusas—traditional white cloths adorned with intricate red wool embroidery—at various stops. These tokens of hospitality, along with the fragrant rice and jowar offered in many places, underscored the region’s rich cultural traditions.
Personally, I found myself rekindling my love for Assam through Swati’s eyes, particularly her joy in driving past endless tea estates and the gushing Brahmaputra river. During the podcast, Swati fondly recalled a moment from their journey:
The sun was setting as the car drove past lush green tea estates on both sides, with 'Kahin Door Jab Din Dhal Jaye' softly playing in the background—a perfect soundtrack for our journey.
If you haven’t yet, I urge you to listen to the podcast and discover the intricacies of our adventure, meticulously organized by the National Commission for Women and the Amazing NamastE Foundation. Whether you’re planning your own Northeastern expedition or simply dreaming of the next destination, let us know where you’d like to go in Northeast India—we’re here to curate your perfect journey.