Delhi Dairies: Part 4: From Monuments to Meals

Lodhi Gardens, India Gate, street art, and Delhi’s culinary treasures

Jan 23, 2025

I was absolutely not ready for the whirlwind of history, food, and charm that Delhi threw at me during one of my last trips of 2024! The city didn’t just meet my expectations—it crushed them in the best way possible. It was that good, and I couldn’t resist turning it into a blog series.

And now, here we are at the grand finale (hold those tears!), with some of the best bits saved just for this post—including drool-worthy food recommendations you’ll definitely want to bookmark!

Lodhi Gardens

I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve heard people rave about Lodhi Gardens. What really sealed the deal for me, though, was discovering they have an Instagram page called Dogs of Lodhi! Being a total sucker for dogs and history, this place was calling my name.

So, one fine winter morning, I decided to take a stroll through Lodhi Gardens. If you’ve ever experienced a winter morning in Delhi, you’ll know that the city’s greenery just hits different. We got there around 10 AM on a weekend, expecting to see families with picnic baskets everywhere (like Bangalore’s Cubbon Park vibes). But nope—there were hardly 30 people in the entire garden! By the time we left around noon, people had started trickling in. Lazy winter picnics, I tell you—pure bliss!

Just to give you the winter-feels in Lodhi garden

Now, Lodhi Gardens isn’t just another pretty park; it’s a slice of Delhi’s rich history. Originally a burial ground for the Sayyid and Lodhi rulers from the Delhi Sultanate era (pre-Mughal times), it was later landscaped by the Brits. You’ll find several heritage monuments here, including Mohammed Shah’s Tomb, Sikandar Lodhi’s Tomb, Bara Gumbad, Sheesh Gumbad, and even a charming old bridge. The tile work, geometric motifs, Quranic inscriptions, and intricate ornamentation on the walls are absolutely breathtaking.

A cinematic pan of the Bada Gumbad and the Shesh Gumbad. Video © Misadventures of a Sneaker

It’s pure magic—centuries-old architecture surrounded by a lush green garden, with birds chirping and squirrels zipping around. And yes, I managed to snag some killer DP-worthy photos here. (Shoutout to my very, very patient husband—he deserves a medal for this one! Haha.)

See, I told you! DP worthy :) One of the many clicked here

Lodhi Art District

After soaking in all that history, make sure you head to the Lodhi Art District—it’s an absolute must! I’ve always been a fan of street art, but the murals here? Next level. We’re talking massive, professionally done murals by artists from around the world. Each one is unique, with different themes and vibrant colors, spread across multiple streets.

Here’s a little collage of some of my favorite murals I spotted—just to give you a glimpse of how stunning this place is. Oh, and P.S., the area has some cute cafes nearby, so don’t miss out on a coffee break while you’re exploring!

There were more murals on the walls - and such well made ones with stories and themes writing on the side.

Hauz Khas

We spent an evening exploring Hauz Khas Village, a buzzing hub that’s got it all—cafes, boutiques, branded stores, breweries, and then, right in the midst of this modern charm- centuries of history staring right at you. The name ‘Hauz Khas’ comes from ‘Hauz,’ meaning tank, and ‘Khas,’ meaning special or royal, so together, it’s literally ‘The Royal Tank.’

The monuments here date back to the 13th-14th centuries during the reigns of Alauddin Khalji and Firuz Shah Tughlaq from the Delhi Sultanate era. Khalji originally built the tank to supply water to Siri Fort, the nearby capital. Later, Tughlaq restored and expanded the reservoir and added the surrounding structures.

You’ll find Firuz Shah Tughlaq’s tomb here, with stunning ornamentation, Quranic inscriptions, and intricate geometric patterns that are so typical of Sultanate-era architecture. Around it are smaller tombs that likely belonged to Tughlaq nobles or family members. Then there’s this amazing L-shaped madrasa, which was the place for learning in the 14th century, and a tiny mosque right next to it.

You can see the many tombs spread across this area

While the historical Hauz Khas Complex is the main draw, the entire Hauz Khas Village is one of Delhi’s trendiest neighborhoods. It’s no wonder everyone loves it here.

India Gate

A trip to Delhi has to include India Gate—not once, but twice. Trust me on this. You need to see it in daylight and when it’s all lit up at night. It’s such a classic Delhi experience!

Now, here’s the thing. My Delhi friends have always said, “Winter in Delhi isn’t complete until you’ve eaten ice cream at India Gate at night.” And, of course, I couldn’t miss out on something that’s basically a winter ritual. So, there we were—me convincing my husband to eat ice cream in the freezing cold, teeth chattering, and feeling like they might actually fall off. But hey, worth it!

Once you’re done with India Gate, take a stroll along the Kartavya Path all the way to Rashtrapati Bhavan. Even without the Republic Day parade fanfare, it’s such a stunning experience. But honestly, while walking there, all I could think about was how breathtaking this place must look on Republic Day. Definitely need to come back for that

Lotus Temple and Gurudwara Bangla Sahib

One of the afternoons, I visited Gurudwara Bangla Sahib, and on another morning, I went to the Bahai Lotus Temple. Both are serene, gorgeous spots that I 100% recommend.

The Lotus Temple often has long queues, so aim for a weekday morning if you can. Once inside, close your eyes for at least 10-15 minutes. I’m not big on meditation, but the vibe there is next-level calming. Not sure if I actually meditated or just dozed off (oops!), but after my 30-minute visit, I walked out feeling super relaxed and with the biggest smile.

The gardens surrounding the temple are beautifully maintained, with manicured lawns and walkways lined with trees heavy with orange fruits. If I tell you that each tree had atleast a 100 oranges hanging from it, I would not be exaggerating! Visitors aren’t allowed to step onto the lawns (thanks to the volunteers and security personnel), and honestly, I’m glad it’s that way.

Please notice the trees and the oranges hanging from the branches.

Bahá'í House of Worship - the Lotus temple

Now, like all gurudwaras, Gurudwara Bangla Sahib was very peaceful. Originally a bungalow belonging to Raja Jai Singh, it became sacred during the visit of Guru Harkrishan Ji, the eighth Sikh Guru. At just 8 years old, Guru Harkrishan Ji came to Delhi upon the request of Mughal King Aurangzeb. During a devastating smallpox epidemic, Guru Sahib selflessly served the sick and suffering, providing water that is believed to have healing powers. Today, devotees come from all over to seek solace and partake in the holy water from the Sarovar (pond).

The strictly forbid clicking of photos inside the premises of the Bangla Sahib. So I took one from across the road - gorgeous right?

Gurudwaras just have a special charm, don’t they? The calmness, the cleanliness, the seva-bhav of the volunteers gives such a holy vibe. And of course, the delicious khada prasad is always a highlight. (Let’s be real, I was hungry, and it totally hit the spot!)

Flavours of Dilli

Now, let’s talk about food in Delhi—OMG! My 10 days in the city weren’t nearly enough to do justice to all the amazing options. But I gave it my best shot, eating every single meal outside!

I kicked things off with a food walk in Purani Dilli. It was a vegetarian food walk, which, let me tell you, got me some major side-eyes from friends. But as Sadaf Hussain (our tour guide, author, and chef) said at the start, “Purani Dilli isn’t just about kebabs and nihari—vegetarian food here is just as legendary.”

Just a few of the DELICIOUS food we ate in Delhi

Some of the drool-worthy food highlights:

Chole Kulcha at Lotan Chole Kulche, Old Delhi
Chole Bhature at Sitaram Diwan Chand, Paharganj
Kulfi at Kuremal's Kulfi Mohanlal Kulfi Wale (Anar and Falsa flavors—must have!)
Bedmi Poori + Aloo ki Sabzi and Nagori Halwa at Ram Swaroop Nagori Waley
Kachoris and Lassi at Shyam Sweets, Chawri Bazar
Fresh Nankhatai biscuits from the lanes of Chawri Bazar
Hot and fresh jalebis - I’d say have it everywhere
Daulat ki chaat - a unique winter dish, lanes of Old Delhi
Dahi Bhalle at Natraj Dahi Bhalle, Chandni Chowk
All kinds of chaat and Pani Poori at Bengal Sweet House, Bangla Sahib Road
Momos and Thukpa at Dilli Haat
Parathas at Laxman Fast Food (IIFT main gate)

Delhi’s food scene is endless, and I know I’ve barely scratched the surface. So tell me—what are your must-have food recommendations? Did I miss a gem? Drop your foodie tips in the comments!