Summer vacations in Meghalaya and Kaziranga
Issue #1: A podcast with Jigar
With work being less chaotic and schools closing for summer, we got thinking ki kahan chalein vacation pe.. A cooler destination in India was the plan, and suddenly the thought - why not Meghalaya?! and off we went on a whim! With just hotel bookings done for the next day, we started the trip with the plan of exploring just Meghalaya (coz Kaziranga was slated to be closed in the month of May). But kaynaat kuch aur hi plan banaa raha tha. We bumped into this ‘cool’ uncle at the airport who mentioned “arre Kaziranga toh abhi open hai” 😀. Baas! Now we just HAD to go to Kaziranga even though that would mean changing our entire itinerary and even convincing our driver - but we were really keen!
We landed in Guwahati airport and guess what? We found the most epic cab driver for our entire trip - Rahul bhai1! Not just did he happily agree to change the itinerary to include Kaziranga, he got us a hotel there and even scored an afternoon safari slot for us. The drive from the airport was a whopping 7 hours, but trust me, the scenery was jaw-dropping! We even spotted some elephants casually walking along the way!
The afternoon safari was amazing! Kaziranga is truly a forest from another dimension—less dense and more like plains. You won't find yourself lost in a sea of trees here. And oh boy, we saw so many rhinos and baby elephants 🙂 Just too cute to handle!
After the long journey and safari, we were dead tired. So, we skipped the tribal dance show at the hotel and relied on our little daughters to keep us entertained - they never disappoint 😆 We hit the sack early, knowing a long drive to Shillong awaited us the next day.
A special mention to the phenomenal Assamese thali that we had for lunch. The bamboo-shoot chutney, banana flower curry, fermented dishes and even the rice - extremely YUM! A delight for vegetarians and non-vegetarians.
The next day, the drive from Kaziranga to Shillong was another long 7-hour one. Along the way, we made a pit stop at Jiva Veg2, a highway restaurant that totally justified a 45 minute long wait. (Yes, we are super foodies 😋)
Once we arrived in Shillong, the clock was ticking because sunset was at 5 PM, and that meant the parks would be closing soon. So we headed straight to Lady Hydari Park. We found a lady selling fruits outside the park gate and the ‘khate-pite’ kinds that we are, we got a little distracted by these ridiculously yum berries and polished off a few fruit plates.. The guard there who was observing us butted in and said ‘park jaldi close ho jayega.. Par fruit aunty idhar hi rahegi’. Hahaha! We dashed inside and were pleasantly surprised to come face-to-face with a fox and a black bear in the zoo. The kids were thrilled!
Next on our agenda was Ward’s Lake—a stunning artificial lake that oozed charm. As the sun set and the fog descended, the atmosphere turned into pure magic. The boat ride was so perfect - my dil went hmmmm..’. (& yes, I am drame’baaz like that too! 😁)
Our superhero, Rahul bhai, came to the rescue once again and found us a hotel in the Police Bazaar area. After checking in, we hit the streets for some shopping! A small tip, this market is a winter wonderland for fashion enthusiasts. The array of colors and designs in winter clothes will make your go crazy 🤩 Just don't forget, Shillong shuts down early, so make sure to wrap up your shopping spree by 7-8 PM.
And how can we forget the street food? The Police Bazaar area had everything, from a plethora of fish and pork dishes to delightful vegetarian options. But the real star of the show was the coffee - a distinct flavour so unique and interesting.
The next day, we headed to Cherrapunji. Our first stop was the breath-taking Shillong Peak. The view of the valley from up there was so gorgeous, we couldn't resist doing the ultimate touristy thing—wearing the Khasi tribal dress and going click-click-click.
Our main attraction for today was the Mawphlang Sacred Forest—a rather unique place. Imagine vast meadows, picturesque plains, and HUGE stone monoliths. As we entered the forest area we met our guide, and boy, he was a real character, hahaha! Bombarding us with question after question about the forest, only to answer them all himself. A chalta-firta one-man show! 🤣
Oh, and here's a fun fact: In the forest, there's a strong belief that you shouldn't take even a single leaf or branch with you, or else you'll be cursed. So, make sure to brush off any forest remnants before leaving. Risk nahi lene ka!
By the end of the day, we arrived in Cherrapunji, or as the locals call it, 'Sohra'. And our accommodation was a cosy homestay fittingly named 'Inn 2 Sohra3'. It was the perfect place to rest our weary heads after a day of exploration.
Dinner time called for a visit to the fabulous Orange Roots4 restaurant. What made it even more special was that it was entirely run by women! Fresh, aromatic, and downright scrumptious—dinner was a true feast for the senses.
The next day was all about chasing waterfalls! We first went to the grand Cherrapunji waterfall and then the Nohkalikai waterfall. It was pre-monsoon season and the water wasn't at its full power yet, but the sheer height from which these descended was mind-blowing, made the ones in my home state Maharashtra look like a little trickle 😄. But our absolute favourite waterfall of the day was Wai Sawdong. Getting to the falls was an adventure in itself, as we had to walk down a log bridge with our little girls in tow. But once we made it down, the falls looked straight out of a dream. We spent quite some time there playing in the water.
Then was the time to get adventurous and experience the Mawsmai Caves. The trail was long, deep, and pretty narrow. We had to bend and even crawl at times, but hey, it was all part of the fun! And you know who enjoyed it the most? My daughter, of course. Jumping over the stone and creeping into corner crevices - she had a whale of a time 😍
To add: We missed visiting the Garden of Caves and the legendary Double Decker Root Bridge this time. Climbing down around 3500 steps (one way) would have been a tad too much for our little ones. So Meghalaya, we’ll be back again to explore these!
Then off we went on our Mawlynnong adventure, enduring a bumpy 3+ hour drive. But thanks to Rahul bhai's genius, we made a pit stop at Wakaba Falls. It was the perfect waterfall hangout, where kids could splash around without any danger. A real refreshing break.
And then, behold! We arrived at Mawlynnong, known popularly as Asia's cleanest village. Let me tell you, it was like stepping into a mini-resort. So clean, so green, and not a speck of litter in sight. Seriously, if you're visiting Meghalaya, you must spend most of your time here. The village was a picturesque paradise, the people were friendly, and the whole atmosphere was so serene and peaceful.
We stayed at this cosy cottage called Iartong5, with a massive balcony that offered a stunning view of the forest with its majestic trees. And you won't believe it—this tranquil little village stayed open even late into the night!
During our Mawlynnong exploration, we made sure to visit the Single Living Root Bridge. This bridge could easily hold about 20-25 people. It's a true marvel of nature and deserves a spot on the list of Natural Wonders of the world.
We had grand plans of boating in the Dawki River. But apparently, Dawki river is in its crystal-clear form between November and January only. So we did a quick 30min boat ride in a rather muddy and quite crowded river and headed back. But hey, that didn't dampen our spirits! We found several Bangladeshi folks selling 'Jhal Muri' there and happily had a few packs. Oh, and watch out for your phone network—it might just go international on you! Talk about unexpected roaming charges!
On our way back from Mawlynnong to Shillong, we took a detour to visit the Krang Suri Falls. Trust me, you don't want to miss this beauty. Just look at the pictures—I bet you'll be convinced in a heartbeat. They've made it so tourist-friendly that they even provide life jackets. So even if you're a water-phobic adventurer, strap on that life jacket and dive into the fun of swimming and frolicking in the waterfall!
Sadly, our trip was nearing its end. But we couldn't leave without indulging in a meal at Trattoria6 on our last day in Shillong. We pre-booked a table, and let me tell you, it was worth every single bite. The veg and non-veg options were out of this world! I polished off two thalis, because hey, vacation calories don't count, right? Hahaha!
And then, it was time to head back home from Guwahati airport. Throughout the trip, I kept pestering Rahul bhai for the car trip bill, but he had an excuse for everything. He promised to send it by courier, but it seems his memory took a vacation to Bermuda. Hahaha!
I've always believed that the true essence of a trip lies in the experiences we have—conversations with locals, savoring local cuisine, staying at homestays, and living life a little differently. And this Meghalaya trip had it all. Like I said in the podcast, I'm taking away the desire to explore more of the North Eastern states of India, both the ones I've already visited and the ones I haven't. I can't wait to meet more Rahul Bhais, Joes, and Ripping Stars, stay at cozy homestays like Inn Sohra and Iartong, indulge in more food adventures at places like Jiva and Trattoria, explore more parks, chase more waterfalls, and even meet more rhinos! Keep traveling, keep exploring, and keep making unforgettable memories!
- Jigar Bhalani, Meghalaya and Kaziranga, May 2023
Rahul bhai - Please drop us a DM for his contact details
Jiva Veg highway restaurant - https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g503702-d16857001-Reviews-Jiva_Veg-Shillong_East_Khasi_Hills_District_Meghalaya.html
Inn 2 Sohra - https://goo.gl/maps/DKvij6YWcgevvf3G8
Orange Roots restaurant - https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g668046-d7806496-Reviews-Orange_Roots-Sohra_East_Khasi_Hills_District_Meghalaya.html
Irtong guesthouse, Mawlynnong- https://www.instagram.com/iartong_guesthouse/?hl=en
Trattoria - https://www.tripadvisor.in/Restaurant_Review-g503702-d9697155-Reviews-Trattoria-Shillong_East_Khasi_Hills_District_Meghalaya.html
Jigar’s itinerary:
Day 1: Land in Guwahati and head to Kaziranga. Afternoon safari and stay in Kaziranga
Day 2: Kaziranga to Shillong. Stay in Police Bazaar area. Explore:
Lunch at Jiva veg (highway restaurant near Shillong)
Lady Hydari Park
Wards Lake
Explore street food
Day 3: Shillong to Cherrapunji. Stay at Inn Sohra2 in Cherrapunji. Explore enroute:
Shillong peak
ML05 cafe
Mawphlang Sacred Forest
Dinner at Orange Roots restaurant
Day 4: Explore around Cherrapunji:
7 sisters falls
Nohkalikai falls - the drive is stunning
Wai Sawdong falls - the best falls
Mawsmai Caves
Did not explore, but comes highly recommended:
Garden of caves
Double decker root bridge - expect to climb around 3500 stairs one-way
Day 5: Cherrapunji to Mawlynnong. Stay at irtong Mawlynnong. Explore:
Wakaba falls
Single Living Root Bridge
Dawki River
Day 6: Mawlynnong to Shillong. Explore:
Krang Suri falls
Dinner at Trattoria restaurant
Day 7: Shillong to Guwahati. Explore:
Don Bosco museum in Shillong